Handbook : Unit informationEdith Cowan University

Faculty of Regional Professional Studies (Bunbury)

School: Regional Professional Studies

This unit information may be updated and amended immediately prior to semester. To ensure you have the correct outline, please check it again at the beginning of semester.

• Unit Title

  Waves, Tides and Beaches

• Unit Code

  SST2122

• Year

  2015

• Enrolment Period

  1

• Version

  2

• Credit Points

  15

• Full Year Unit

  N

• Mode of Delivery

  On Campus
  Online

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Description

Physical oceanographic concepts involving waves, near-shore currents, tides and beaches are considered in this unit. Sediment transport and beach response are examined in relation to these maritime phenomena. A fieldwork exercise involving beach dynamics plays an important part in the unit assessment.

Learning Outcomes

On completion of this unit students should be able to:

1. Compare and contrast the equilibrium and the dynamic tidal theories.
2. Conduct functional beach field work to collect quantitative data and generate a relevant scientific report.
3. Describe processes involving the structure, formation and dispersion of waves.
4. Discuss the relationship between currents, sediment transport and beaches.
5. Explain the causes and effects of oceanic tidal patterns.
6. Quantify, explain and predict dynamic coastal processes.
7. Recognise and interpret diverse coastal morphology.
8. Summarise the structure and function of the surf zone.

Unit Content

1. Beach morphology.
2. Beach sediments.
3. Dynamics of tides.
4. Dynamics of waves.
5. Longshore currents.
6. The surf zone.
7. Tidal patterns, tidal theory and tidal analysis.
8. Tsunamis.
9. Wave components, orbital velocities, shoaling waves, deep and shallow water waves.
10. Wave energy, dissipation and form.
11. Wave refraction and reflection.

Additional Learning Experience Information

Lectures, tutorials and field work.

Assessment

GS1 GRADING SCHEMA 1 Used for standard coursework units

Students please note: The marks and grades received by students on assessments may be subject to further moderation. All marks and grades are to be considered provisional until endorsed by the relevant Board of Examiners.

Text References

• Brown, E., & Colling, A. (2002). Waves, tides and shallow water processes. Milton Keynes: Open University Press.
• Carter, R. W. G. (2002). Coastal environments. California: Academic Press.
• Dyer, K. R. (1997). Coastal and Estuarine Sediment Dynamics. New Jersey: Wiley & Sons.
• Duxbury, A. C., Duxbury, A. B., & Sverdrup, K. A. (2005). An introduction to the world's oceans. Boston: McGraw Hill.
• Trujillo, A. P., & Thurman, H. V. (2014). Essentials of oceanography. New Jersey: Prentice Hall.
• Harvey, N., & Caton, B. (2003). Coastal management in Australia. South Melbourne: Oxford University Press.
• Komar, P. D. (2000). Beach processes and sedimentation. New Jersey: Prentice Hall.
• Short, A. D. (2006). Beaches of the Western Australian coast: Eucla to Roebuck Bay. Sydney: Sydney University Press.
• Garrison, T. (2007). Oceanography. Belmont USA: Thomson.

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